Gibb river road Day 5 &6 (18-19/8) and 7&8(20-21/8)

 

We went and said hello to the girls at the APT wilderness lodge but they were hesitant to "interrupt" the community on a Sunday. We said we could pop back ion Tuesday, and have a few days exploring. We checked out Adcock gorge, which was a stunning pretty gorge, set off the high way, along 5km of really rough track. Good test for the new tyres (and they survived) We spent the afternoon here, Nick tried his luck catching a Sooty Grunter, to no avail, but Sahara loved jumping in and fetching the stick. We also noticed some rock art on the wall. We set up a picnic rug and were away from the heat of the day by this cool gorge.

Sahara loved "cooling" off on this Hot day..

 

Adcocks Gorge "wetland, filled with lovely lillypads, below

 

Stunning aqua water, and sheer cliffs lining it all the way around, we had it all to ourselves, and totally swim-able


 Later on we packed up and headed towards Manning Gorge, but it was mega expensive, at $20p/p p/n to camp, and $8 p/p just to get in for a day visit. We backtracked 10km and visited Galvans gorge. Its an easy Km walk in (one way) and loved it. There was a tour group there when we arrived and it was getting on in the afternoon so we decided to hang around and spend the day there tomorrow.

That night we met another young couple travelling around, they had been on the road for a couple of years. Was nice to spend some time with people in our own age bracket, although they were a bit "loose". We lit a big fire and spent most of the night with them. They had many stories to share and Nick and i were cracking up most of the night.

Wandjina rock art at Galvans Gorge


We had a great sleep, was quite hot to start with then the temp dropped off early morning. We had a lazy morning watching people come and go from the gorge. I had a massive headache so i took it real slow for a few hours. We packed a day bag and set off, intent of spending the whole arvo there. We got to the gorge around 10:45-11am when another group was arriving, we had already bumped into this group the other day at bell gorge and a few remembered us and said hi. We climbed around to this rock ledge we were on the other day and sun blocked up, the sun has a bite up here. We started nibbling on the yummy lunch Nick prepared, and noticed this little lizzard trying to et up on what seemed to be his rock to bake on. Then Nick looked up and noticed a snake in the rockwall above our heads.

So above my head, in the rocks is the snake


 Not so worried we continued on and ten we saw a massive water monitor/lizzard pop up from the water to bake on the rock in front of us.

We felt like we were on the "wildlife" side of the gorge. Once the groups had left we strolled over to the other side of Galvans gorge and set up, under this beautiful Wandjina. We even had a tour guide come along later on in the day and tell the story, and as we were so close we caught it too! We had the most amazing, relaxing afternoon. Great way to beat this Kimberly heat, by a gorge with this trickling waterfall, birds chirping and nature in all its glory!!

It was like someone had landscaped this gorge, it was just so perfect it even had a lovely old boab up the top too! We were reluctant to leave but decided we had spent long enough there and got back to the snail at 5pm ish! A few people stayed that night too, and after they all came over and introduced them selves we were ready for bed. An early one, but a good one. The girls woke us up around 3-4am we heard a baying/howling in the distance and thought it may have been a dingo.

We packed up and headed back to the art centre at Imintji, and to say hello to the friendly girls in the wilderness lodge.

The girls there are so lovely, we filled our water, had a cup of tea, and then Nikki, the Aussie bird who we met the other day when we were there gave us some apples, cheesecake and a 2L frozen water bottle (that was the best bit) i love COLD water so she literally made my day with just that lovely gesture. We have traded emails and hope to keep in contact. We visited the art store and saw some amazing pieces, canvas, didgeridoo's and fighting sticks but nothing that really caught our eye, that was in our budget. After filling up with fuel again we set off towards manning gorge.

Guess what.... We got just past Galvans and we got another flat!! Well, emergency action plan, actioned and we got it fixed. It was the drivers side rear, again, and it was the spare we got back in Adelaide that had the nail in it. So it held up pretty well maybe a 100km or so!


We decided to pay in full for a site as we didn't need any more bad Karma, or whatever was working against us. After arriving to the "campsite" our pockets feeling light, we were disappointed in what we found. Lots of people and a very poorly maintained site. No grass, prickles everywhere, like 3 corner jacks but on steroids, with points everywhere to stab you. The toilet block ran on a generator system, between the hours on 6-9am and 4-7:30 pm so if you wanted a shower you had to go between those times, which was OK, BUT, if you needed to visit the loo around those times they were backed up cess-pits, as they couldn't flush until those times (WTF) !!

We were both Hot and bothered and after setting up we walked down to the waterhole near the camp for a dip, We got both the girlies wet as they were very hot and bothered too! It was an awesome water hole to swim in too, crystal clear water and look at how picturesque it was.....

 

After a relaxing night we watched a couple of movies then slept fairly well. Its a full moon so its very bright out at night.

We packed a day bad and cleaned up inside, we had heard many amazing things about this waterfall and gorge here, and wanted to spend the day. With 10L water, lunch AND snacks, towels, sunblock and camera we set off, 9:30am. We all had fun crossing the water hole in the pulley system boat.
 
Its advised to give yourself and hour and a half to walk the 2.5km, and many people told us it was a bastard ( bet they didnt do the 16km trek we did in tassie) We smashed it in, in just under an hour. Was challenging in some points, very dry country (snake land) but a well trodden path.


There were some big jumps and distances between the rocks so the girlies needed a hand in a few spots.

The girlies loved exploring off leash, and were very well behaved when we encountered people.

We made it and look at this........

 

 

Best picnic spot... ever

This was the "water hole" before the actual Gorge.

 The waterfall, was a trickle but still added to the "ambience"

 

 We all chilled out for the arvo....





The girlies did too.....

We played fetch with Sahara




Stunning, who could believe that such natural large bodies of water are located inland, in such dry, arid, hostile environments. Well the sun was beating down on us, we decided to go opposite the (albeit small) waterfall, on the toasty warm rocks, in the shade of some lovely tall gum trees.

We set up and both dived in, Sahara too( Delta got her paws wet). it was refreshingly cool, and then a little warm in spots, the colour of the water was this amazing aqua and was the cleanest and clearest i've seen yet. Lots of sooty groper also, but no motivation on nicks behalf, Today was total relaxation. We watched people jump off the rocks, nearly 10 meters up. I wanted to give it a shot but decided its probably not a good idea with a baby in my belly!


 Everyone left by 11am, for the trek back and we had the whole gorge to ourselves until we decided to go just after 3:30! Amazing!! needless to stay after some refreshingly cool skinny dipping on my behalf and sunbaking we were in a state of tranquil bliss. We started the slog back and said a sad farewell to such an amazing spot. (We had also heard that trekking down stream there are many "beaches" with private little bays, but as we had the gorge to ourselves we didn't have to bother.)

I "Dora the explorer" it up according to nick, but at least Dora didn't get burnt like a beetroot!

 
 When we returned i had a cold shower and Nick assessed the sunburn on his chest, (I had told him to slip,slop,slap)

We had a yummy dinner and are preparing to have an early night. We want to get to Barnets Gorge tomorrow, free camping.

Update on Delta her bite is still a bit gross, but healing well, she is her normal self so we aren't worried, she is eating/drinking ok. Both girlies are exhausted after todays adventure.

 

Gibb river road day 3 (16/8) &4 (17/8)

 

 

Gibb river road day 3 (16/8) &4 (17/8)

We decided early morning to stay at Apex creek another day, this enabled Nick to use the tyre repair kit given to him by John, and for us to spend some time with the girlies. We also did some boring housekeeping and washed a few clothes because of the fresh water creek nearby. After lunch we noticed Delta had been bitten by something on her bottom, right near the "poo shoot". We got out " first aid for dogs" book and our First aid kit, thanks Uncle Ken (best Vet ever) We cleaned it up, as it was quite swollen and gave her a antistamine and pain reief tablet (the bite itself was the size of a 5c piece and was swollen/red and stiff for a good 2 cm around that). By the afternoon it had popped (if your of a sensative nature dont read this next line) and gooey, bloody, puss came out for a few hours. We kept cleaning with salt water, and as the core was large, and in a "dirty" area, we decided to give her antibiotics too! We monitored her through the night. We were joined that night by another camper with a backpacker as a companion.


We set off Saturday 17th August keen and eager to see Bell gorge and with our tyre patched extremely well (or so we thought).  After a near miss with a donkey and a cow (and plenty of woofs to accompany, we travelled past Lennard Gorge and had been told by many its not really worth the effort. We wanted to walk to the bottom of the Bell gorge and get there early as it is a National Park again, and the girlies would have to stay in the car.

 

 

 

 

Well 50km from Apex creek, maybe 10km on the turnoff towards Bell Gorge, we get a flat, same back Tyre, as the day before. We worked out a quick action plan, me snatching the Jack from under my seat and giving it to Nick ASAP, to save unneccisary "jacking". This was at 8am ish. Tyre off (only lasted a day) patched tyre on 8:30am. We decided then, as it was cool morning, to break the bead/rim off the other spare which was flat (we had no more puncture repair goo left) and put our spare tyre on it! Well after getting it off the back and cleaning out all the bulldust we notice it has a friggin nail through it, YEP, right next to the sticker that says quality "used tyre warrenty ????? We have picture proof too! Anyways we went ahead with the process 9:15 am and checked it for leaks (sure enough the nail gave it a slow leak, but would be do-able, Nicks words, if required). Was re-assuring as mostly every car that passed us stopped, we almost considered putting up a sign, either saying "were OK" or "Nick needs a cold beer, you got one?" On the road again 9:30 am. We drive past the campsite we plan to hit up on the way out for a water fill and shower.

I kid you NOT, 10km down the road we hear that now all-so familiar noise again.... yep another puncture! We have punctured the patched tyre as well as blown out the patch job, back drivers side tyre isnt happy jan. Quick action plan, actioned. 9:45 am here we go again! We see people who stopped on their way in and have stopped at the campground, then have continued on to the George. Yep they have a laugh but offer assistance. Lucky we did the rim thing before, as we're both a bit hot and bothered now. Weather sitting around high 20's. Before you ask, we wernt doing maniac speeds, taking corners too fast and we had let the tyre pressure down (apparently hlps provent punctures from sharp rocks). 10:30am on the road again. We get to the gorge at 11am. After going real slow and having a laugh about our circumstance, an hoping we dont pop another tyre because were all out of spares!

Let me sum that up 3 tyres, 2 days driving, 2oo km in = yeah Gibb river road!!

Anyways we pack a bag and head for a trek to the gorge,

 its a 1.5km return walk to the top of the waterfall, then another Km return to get to the bottom. The sign said this was the "hairy section". The hairy section was below, this was at the top of the waterfall.

 

 

 

 

The sign was right and it was quite "hairy", but we managed, i should say I managed, Nick did just fine. was very steep climbing down huge rocks, but so worth it when you get to the bottom!

 

 

 After taking some speedy shots, all so eager to get wet, we jump in and have a swim around.

The water coming down the falls was really warm and the pool itself quite chilly. So refreshing aftr the last part of the walk! On the other side we noticed a really big lizzard, and a small one sunbaking on the rocks. After a bit we decided to get back to the car, and move on, to make sure we reached Imitji store at a reasonable hour, as it was Saturday.

We saw this sign as we approached....."we played guess the price.... how far can we bend over the barrel"


After purcasing a phonecard we called Mum and Dad, and asked them to check our bank account via net banking (last thing we want is to default on mortgage) all good there, so green light for tyres, we were expecting to get bent over, new tyres were $320 each fitted. This guy gets a lot of business out here he even has to direct the customers on the front fence of the store.

 

 

We ended up getting two seccond hand tyres for $140! Not too bad, and the fella gave us 10 more patch sticks. He also said about a Km down the road we can camp for the night and sort out the tyres, and give him the busted ones tomorrow. After another quick call to John and Diane to say hi, and update them, and a visit to the loo where I encountered a green tree frog living under the rim... I had to ask if it was real. We filled up and were told that Diesel is even more expensive at Mt Barnett.

We arrive at the spot after driving through a herd of cattle (lots of woof woofing)and notice a few girls sitting by the creek, Nick says to go say Hi and he'll take care of the tyres. After securing our girlies i jump out and establish they work at the APT travel lodge across the road, and we get chatting for a few hours.

 Nick busily works on the tyres, record time two tyres off the rims and two tyres on using tyre levers 40 min, Nick was very proud. Our tyre marks now look like a patch work quilt. When the girls go to leave they give us the lunch pack they made for themselves but didnt eat( no wonder they are all so skinny), so Nick gets a muffin, and we get some apples and fruitsalad. Lovely girls, they also invite us around tomorrow as the Imitji art centre is closed and they sell some of the local artwork.

After Sahara has watched all the cows with a amazed look we retire and head to bed (where im writing this from now) and wonder what our next few days will bring.

Gibb river road DAY 1 (14/8) &2 (15/8)

We entered Gibb River and drove the bitumen, was an easy ride, and we pulled in to check out the Mowanjum Art and cultural Centre. What a place, it is slightly separated from the community ( that was disappointing as i would have loved to check it out) but the Centre itself was AMAZING! If you get a chance i would recommend checking out the website www.mowanjum.com.au




The focus of the Art here was the Wandjina, it is considered the supreme spirit being. If you remember back to the Sydney Olympics this Art featured prominently in the opening ceremony and as become famous since. We were greeted by friendly staff and asked if we wanted to watch a movie. Was a great relief from the outside heat, but we did feel for the dogs in the hot car. The movie was Fantastic and did a wonderful Job of explaining the Mowanjum people and their history, as well as the special connection to the Wandjina itself. I was again disappointed at just missing out on the cultural festival held in July. We spent a couple of hours looking at all the Art at we both fell in love with the Wandjina, we wanted to buy some but remembered our budget (just in time too) and agreed when we get back home with a bit more cash in our pockets to get a painting then.

There was a lot of smoke and we drove through a burn off on the side of the road. There were all these eagles flying around picking up all the small animals fleeing.






We moved on and said goodbye to the bitumen, and were surprised at how well maintained the road was. It got very hot by about 1pm so we pulled over under a big tree and waited out the heat in the shade for a few hours, was good for the car, the girlies and us!

 We moved on and shortly after hitting the road again found our spot for the night, overlooking Lenard river Bridge. A young couple had been there for lunch/rest and as they were leaving, as they were about to return their hire car, and had nearly finished the Gibb, they offered us 15L of water, was a very kind gesture and were grateful, as its spring water and we have been running on tap water. The river water was barely there, but after i had a rest (NIck went and learnt a new song to play on the Ukulele........ from some Belgium backpackers- no woman no cry if you want to know the tune) The sun was about to set. we noticed earlier another camper pulling up who had a dog and decided to have a yarn and see if they had any good tips on the road ahead, especially as they had come from the other direction. Well lucky we did and after an hour or so, and a full sheet of info we said a big thanks and a happy travels! We went over and then had a shared dinner with the German/Japanese/ Belgium backpackers it was lovely.


　

After an early night and one of my best sleeps since becoming pregnant, we were up at 5:30am, to pack up and head off as planned, so we could visit the National Parks while the girlies remained in the vehicle, before it got too HOT. First on the list was Windjana Gorge, and as we were so early to arrive we were the first ones to enter for the day (we could tell by all the cobwebs we broke as we walked along the path) We saw a lovely wallaby and joey as we entered the park, and were awed by the size of these limestone walls, at points over 100 meters high, and a stunning array of colours. It felt like walking through the set for Jurassic park, with birds chirping, green flora, blue skies and being extra cautious for any stray crocs bathing on the banks.

 

We walked most of the distance, the last km was shut due to erosion so we only got a 5Km return walk. We saw an amazing display of fruit bats who were nosily trying to stake their claim for their day time resting spot.

 We were both impressed to see a few fossils amongst the limestone walls, and there are from the Devonian times. We hadn't seen many fresh water crocodiles as it was cool, and the sun hadn't cleared the range yet. On the walk back there were heaps! We sat at this one spot and counted around 50, sunbathing on the far bank, or floating in the water. Wish my camera had better Zoom, but im sure you can get the gist. Some just look like logs.

 

 

 

We snuck over to the campgrounds and had the BEST hot/warm shower, it had been nearly a week, then visited the camp host and bought a couple souvenir t-shirts each. Yes its a bit daggy, I know.

The entrance to the park.




We Headed onto Tunnel creek National Park. This place is famous for Jandammarra(the famous Aboriginal who was used for a tracker, a man caught between two cultures, after he shot his white fella partner, to free his family, he and family spent most of his time hiding out here, his final battle was at the entrance where another Aboriginal tracker shot him, there is a movie about it and for the life of me i cant remember the name... Petra/Cheryl help me here.) We had a torch to share, and loved trekking through the cave system. It reminded us both of our caving experience in Thailand, minus the rotten bamboo ladders and bridges. If i recall correctly the walk took us about half and hour each way. It was soo cool in there, and a nice break from the outside heat, possibly around 25 degrees already by 10 am! We both wished we could do the Aboriginal guided tour there but the next one was at 2pm, and that meant waiting all afternoon with the dogs, in a national park, and then having to leave them in the car for 2 hours.... another time for sure.





The exit to the tunnel, there is a light!


The tunnel was pitch black, the water came above my knees





The marbling in the stone was stunning.



Huge stalagmites & stalactites.




Rest stop at the end


We made lunch, let the girlies out for a wee break, then left and headed onwards to find a camp for the night at approx. 12noon, was super HOT i'd say nearing around 35 degrees now. We followed the ranger out and decided to stop as we were just driving through his dust trail, and let the girlies have a proper run and pick up a pod of a fallen Boab, they are edible, and are meant to taste somewhat like powdered milk (according to our bush tucker guide- thanks Jimmy) Yeah well they dont, more like a sour powdered milk! Anyways we moved on and i kid you not, 100 meters down the road we fell victim to the tyre monster. Yep first flat since we have been on the road.

 Of course the sun was beating down on us and there was no shady tree in sight. So i started writing this blog, while Nick changed the tyre in the heat (wasn't much i could do anyways) Was great every second car and one out of two tour busses stopped to see if we /Nick was ok or needed anything to which Nick would reply 'a cold beer'. Nick discovered that one of the leaf springs was broken (back of the axe and some fencing wire job ) :) lucky he noticed otherwise it may have destroyed the tyre completely.

We checked out the Lillimooloora Homestead, this spot is where Jandammara choose between the two cultures. He shot the man (and friend) who had his family in chains, destined for ownership by the North West Pastoral Company, setting his family free and committing murder. This sparked a man hunt witch lasted 3 years. His story is a interesting one (of which there is much more), and has us wondering what we would have done in the same position. The place is just ruins and had some bunting around one part of the house. Would have been good to see this site properly maintained.


We pushed on again, and finally (after what seemed forever) made it back to the spot where we camped last night. We had been told by the water giving couple about a spot they swam in 50Km or so from where we spent last night. We decided to push on, and came across this lovely lookout to view the ranges from.


We ended up decided to pull over at 3:30 ish, didn't find the swimming spot, as we'd driven for long enough, Girlies needed a break, and this spot was ultra shady, and by a small creek. When we got out to explore i found lovely water lilies in the creek. The creek was named Apex.






Nick is using Johns puncture kit and repairing the tyre as i type this, in the cool shade.